Lab 34: ocean: surfing
MigrationFrom Parker Birdsall:
Download Surfing Lab.pdf (application/pdf, 6.7 MB)
Download Surfing Lab-2.pdf (application/pdf, 1.1 MB)
Download Surfing Lab-3.pdf (application/pdf, 227.4 KB)
Teahupo’o
Even the wave’s name means “wall of broken skulls”. It is a hotspot for surfing competitions, known for its big waves and barrels but more than that it is known for its odd form. The reef wave breaks in progressan odd shape that gains attention—the crescent-shaped break forms this way as it breaks along a large crescent reef in Tahiti. The area breaks exceptionally at around 20ft and was the home of the 2024 Paris Olympic Games. The break season is from April to October and breaks well when the swell is in the southwest direction as waves sweep through the surrounding islands and condense the swell as it approaches the reef. The waveform is perfect at the high wave height due to the rapid gain in seafloor elevation up to the reef.
Competition:
Kelly Slater vs. John John Florence - Billabong Pro Tahiti 2016 Final
Big Surf:
Biggest, Scariest Teahupoo in Over a Decade
Banzai Pipeline
Banzai Pipeline or just Pipeline is the host of some of the biggest events in surfing. The wave is a go-to for competitive surfing during the winter months as the break offers as close to a perfect barrel as one could hope for. The wave breaks perfectly during the winter months and with a WNW or NW swell pattern. Again, the waves are known because of its ability to hold a perfect barrel even at large sizes. The wave hits the first reef at 15 feet from the surface causing it to shoot up where it leads into varying reef heights from 2-8 feet from the surface, making it extremely dangerous and creating the greatest barrel on earth.
BEST WAVES IN YEARS (MASSIVE PIPELINE)
Perfect Pipeline With Kai Lenny And The GOAT Kelly Slater!
Nazaré
Nazaré is one of the most bizarre breaks on the planet. The wave was first documented by foreign wave riders in the 1960s as locals told tourists from the United States of the North Beaches great waves in the winter season. The tourists were sadly only there during the summer and never were able to see these monster waves. It was not until the mid-2000s when a Portuguese bodysurfing local contacted famous American big wave surfer Garret McNamara who would go to fame because of his historic ride on this wave. Nazaré is unlike most other waves with it breaking on a sandbar, making it both unpredictable and typically not very horizontally long as it only breaks to the extent of the sandbar. Breaking on the North beach of Nazaré in Portugal the wave is home to the Nazaré Big Wave Challenge and holds the world record for the largest wave ever surfed at 93.97 feet. Another reason why the break is unique is as the winter season approaches and the WNW swell builds the swell travels through the canyon, allowing it to travel much faster as it approaches the shore. When it hits the canyon wall it shoots up and combines with the slow-moving swell on the side of the canyon to create the biggest wave ever surfed.
100ft World Record Wave, Garrett McNamara Surfing Nazare, Portugal
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